RV Care · Protection Guide · Part 2
In our previous article we discussed the different options once oxidation occurs. In this article, we’re going to dive deeper into proper gelcoat polishing, the tools and products involved, and how to find a detailer who will do the job correctly.
Removing oxidation from gelcoat is not as simple as many people think. The goal is to remove all of the oxidized material while taking off as little good gelcoat as possible. This requires the right tools, the right products, and a careful approach.
Understanding different polishers
There are three types of polishers: rotary polishers, dual-action (DA) polishers, and forced rotation (DA) polishers.
Important Warning: Do not buy what is commonly sold as a “buffer,” “waxer,” or “polisher/buffer.” These machines are easy to spot — they usually have a large 10-inch pad and often come with bonnets that slip over the pad. Real polishers use 5 to 6-inch pads. These inexpensive machines are designed for applying and buffing off paste wax, not for removing oxidation from gelcoat. The fact that a product calls itself a “polisher” does not make it one. Avoid these machines completely.
If you ever see a detailer using one of these buffer/waxers on your RV, it’s a red flag. They are almost certainly planning to use a cheap wax, glaze, filler, or oil-based product to temporarily hide the oxidation instead of actually removing it with a true polish and polisher.
Rotary polisher spins in a single direction at high speeds. When used with a wool pad, it can remove oxidation aggressively. However, wool pads can generate significant heat on the surface, increasing the risk of burning the gelcoat or removing too much material.
Dual-action (DA) polisher, also known as a random orbital polisher, works very differently. Instead of spinning at high speeds, it vibrates in a circular motion while slowly rotating. This makes it a much more gentle and safer way to polish gelcoat, especially for DIYers.
Forced rotation (DA) polisher, The main difference between a standard DA and a forced rotation DA is that a regular random orbital can stall under pressure, while a forced version uses internal gears to keep the pad spinning no matter what. That gives you more cut and efficiency on curves and when you need to apply pressure. The stalling ability of the standard DA is actually a built-in safety feature for beginners—if you accidentally apply too much pressure, the pad stops spinning instead of continuing to work and potentially burning or damaging the paint. That’s why it’s the safest way to learn. Once you’re comfortable with polishing and have some experience, a forced rotation DA is something to consider for extreme oxidation rather than jumping directly to a rotary, which is really best for higher skilled detailers.
For most DIYers, a dual-action (DA) polisher paired with a foam pad is the much safer choice. Foam pads generate far less heat, making them much more forgiving and reducing the risk of damaging the gelcoat. The tradeoff is that it will take longer and you will likely need to make more passes to fully remove the oxidation.
Choosing the Right Pads and Polishes
Wool pads are more aggressive and remove material faster, while foam pads are gentler and are typically used for the final passes. Some detailers may start with a wool pad and then finish with foam. Some detailers may also use multi-stage polishing, where they use a more aggressive polish for the initial pass followed by a finer finishing polish. For DIYers, we strongly recommend using only foam pads along with a quality polish such as Polish All.
How to Tell If It’s a Real Polish
Not all products labeled as “polish” actually remove oxidation. Many are simply fillers, glazes, or wax and oil-based products that temporarily hide the problem. These products may look good for a short time, but the oxidation will return — often after the very next wash.
A true polish contains abrasives that physically remove the oxidized layer of gelcoat. When choosing a polish, look for products that clearly state they “remove oxidation” There are many high-quality polishes on the market that work very well — you do not have to use Polish All specifically.
If you hire a professional detailer, we recommend you do not insist they use a specific brand of polish. Most experienced detailers have developed a system with products they know and trust. If you require them to use a different product and something goes wrong, they will likely blame the polish rather than their technique.
The Physical Reality of Polishing an RV
It is important to be honest about how demanding this job really is. Polishing an entire RV is a major project that can easily take 50 to 70 hours or more depending on the size of the coach and how bad the oxidation is. If you’re doing it for the first time, especially on a coach with heavy oxidation, it could easily take well over 70 hours.
Safety first
Never attempt to polish your RV while standing on a ladder. It is impossible to maintain three points of contact while operating a heavy polisher. The risk of falling is simply not worth it. Proper scaffolding or scissor lift is required to safely reach the upper areas of most RVs.
The good news is that while polishing is difficult and risky, maintaining your RV afterward is much safer and easier. Using Wash Wax All with the patented Wash Wax Mop allows you to safely clean and protect your entire RV from the ground — with no need for ladders or scaffolding.
A Word About Wet Sanding
Some detailers, particularly those who come from the marine industry, may recommend wet sanding with fine grit sandpaper to remove heavy oxidation. While this method can be effective in extreme cases, it should be approached with caution on RVs. RV gelcoat is typically much thinner than boat gelcoat, and sanding permanently removes material that can never be replaced. The more gelcoat you remove, the faster oxidation will return in the future. Unless the oxidation is extremely severe, most experienced RV detailers prefer to remove oxidation through polishing rather than sanding.
Finding a Professional Detailer
Given the time, physical demands, and risk involved, many RV owners are better off hiring an experienced professional. However, not all detailers are created equal.
When speaking with a potential detailer, don’t be afraid to ask specific questions:
- What type of polisher and pads do you use?
- What polish do you use to remove oxidation?
- Do you perform a multi-stage process (for example, starting with a wool pad and finishing with a foam pad)?
- How do you ensure you are removing all the oxidation without removing too much good gelcoat?
A reputable detailer should be able to clearly explain their process. Even better, ask if they will do a small test section on your RV so you can see the results before they polish the entire coach. After they finish the test section, spray a degreaser on the area and wipe it off completely. If the shine disappears or the surface looks dull again, they were likely using a wax, glaze, or filler instead of actually removing the oxidation.
Some experienced detailers may use a wool pad and a more aggressive approach than a DIYer should. They may perform a multi-stage process using two different polishes — an initial pass with a medium or more aggressive polish, followed by a finer finishing polish. They may use either a wool or foam pad on a rotary polisher, or they may finish with a DA and foam pad. Their skill, technique, and speed allow them to work safely and effectively. What matters most is that they are actually removing the oxidation — not just hiding it with a wax or oil-based product.
Conclusion
Proper gelcoat polishing is both an art and a skill. While it can be done DIY, it is a very large and physically demanding project that requires proper equipment, patience, and a willingness to learn proper technique. For many RV owners, hiring a qualified professional is the safer and more practical choice.